Natural materials fall into two large categories: cellulose- or plant-based (e.g. cotton, hemp, linen) and protein- or animal-based (e.g. wool, silk, leather, down). While they often tend to be labeled as the “good” and preferable alternative to synthetic materials, social and environmental impacts of all materials vary in relation to where they come from and how they are produced. For example, cotton is a crop with high requirements of water use to increase crop yields and fiber length, which is highly problematic because it is largely grown in areas that already suffer from water scarcity. Conventionally grown cotton, (as opposed to genetically modified (GM) crops, organic cotton or Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton), also relies on heavy use of insecticides and pesticides. Animal-based materials including wool, leather, silk or down need careful consideration in terms of animal welfare, land use and intensive treatments with chemicals. The traceability of the supply chain, the selection of the right material for the right application, manufacturing processes, distribution, laundering and maintenance practices during use, and also how fashion products are disposed of at their end of life must all come into the equation. Material sustainability is therefore complex and always context dependent.(1-5)
NATURAL MATERIALS
